by Buck on August 31, 2010
In a casual conversation with friends at dinner, I wondered about the aging process that turns mozzarella into provolone. Everyone looked at me with a quizzical look of somewhat disbelief. It turned out that no one realized that the stretched curd process that creates mozzarella is the first step in creating the various types of provolone.
I’m not a cheese maker but certainly am a cheese lover. The folks that live in Philly are lucky to have several legendary cheese shops that have great selections. Two of those shops are only a block apart in the Italian Market on 9th street. Di Bruno’s and Claudio’s have much to offer but the edge in customer satisfaction goes to Di Bruno Bros hands down. Di Bruno’s has opened a very impressive second store in center city Philadelphia which rivals any in the country for the cheese, olives, olive oil and cured meats regularly stocked.
They have a great web site and ship everywhere.
When I lived in Philadelphia I went to Di Bruno Bros on 9th St. twice a month, every month, to stock up on not only the Italian Cheeses but to try the wide range of cheese(about 400 varieties) they carry from all over the world. They always had the time to describe the cheese being purchased and were quick with a “try a piece” suggestion. My interest and much of my knowledge about the various cheeses started at the DiBruno Bros store in the Italian market.
I learned that Assiago Pressato(fresh) is a cheese with a sweet flavor while Assiago Allevo is slowly matured and produces a sharper flavor.
Pecorino Romano which has been made since Roman days is an alternative for grating on your pasta for a change from Parmigiano. Jarlsberg, Sapsaogo, the French Cheeses using edible ash and the variety of Cheddars slowly came to my attention through the years.
In Colorado where I now live there are several producers of excellent goat cheeses and the Willow River Natural Cheese Co. is producing some decent cheeses. There are excellent prospects that some unique variations are becoming available from local producers
I do miss the opportunity to buy cheese that is cut from the wheel to order. The best cheese retailer I have found in Colorado is The Cheese Importers Warehouse in Longmont and they do a decent job. The Parmigiano Reggiano and other cheeses are wrapped in cyropac which takes some of the fun out of the purchase and the taste seems to be affected. They must package the cheese this way since there just isn’t enough business to be cutting the cheese from a wheel and maintain quality.
Di Bruno’s helped prepare me for eating dinner in Europe which often ends with a cheese tray. I held my own when the cheese discussion took place in a restaurant ordering or when being entertained in a home. I almost always recognized the cheese served and could come up with an appropriate compliment concerning the choices on the tray.
If you are going to do some serious traveling in Europe it doesn’t hurt to know your cheeses. You need to remember that the blue veined cheese in England is Stilton and in Italy it’s Gorganzola. When in France do not mistake the Roquefort for any other blue cheese. As a matter of fact make no comparison of French Cheese to any other, whether blue, white rind or semi soft. The French really don’t seem to completely recognize that others know how to make great cheese. Stilton was always my favorite among the blue cheeses but since pasteurization became a British requirement in 1990 Gorgonzola has taken a slim preference lead. The English have some strange traditions and one was “digging the Stilton”. Fortunately that practice is not one likely to be often required. I’ve only personally run into a digging event once and only after the Port was banged around the table several times.
If you have an interest in expanding your knowledge of cheese check out Juliet Harbutt’s book “Cheese” It covers 300 cheeses concisely with a lot of good information on buying and serving cheese.
by Buck on August 28, 2010
As we come to the end of the growing season it is time to think about using the basil that is still flourishing in your garden. The flourishing will fade soon and Basil Pesto is the answer for a Labor Day weekend activity.
Here are some thoughts on pesto with a basic recipe and variations.
Basil Pesto
Ingredients:
2 cups firmly packed basil leaves-washed and drained well
¼ cup pignola (pine nuts)
3 cloves of garlic-peeled and crushed
¾ cup freshly grated Parmesan Reggiano
½ cup olive oil
pinch of course salt
Preparation:
Blend basil, nuts and garlic
Blend in cheese
Add oil while slowly blending
Storage:
Serve immediately or place in a jar add a thin layer of olive oil and cover
The pesto will refrigerate and maintain quality for a week
If you are making a large amount the pesto will freeze well without the cheese
Add cheese before serving. The cheese doesn’t freeze well
Variations:
Try walnuts, almonds or pistachios instead of the pine nuts. Pine nuts are not loved by everyone in our family and they also can be very expensive.
Roasted red peppers make an interesting pesto. Simply substitute the roasted peppers for the basil
Preparation Thoughts:
Pesto traditionally was made in Italy by finely chopping the basil by hand, .rather than using a blender and the ingredients then blended in a mortar . The consistency created by adding the hand minced basil is interesting and worth a try if you have a ½ hour and need knife skill practice.
Romano cheese instead of the Parmesan adds a slightly stronger cheese presence that many find enjoyable.
Your garden might contain other, end of growing season, pesto possibilities.
Parsley, arugula, bell peppers are possibilities
Lemon peel and black olives cab be added when blending, for variety.
by Buck on August 16, 2010
Sunday evening we hosted a small dinner party. A friend from Memphis comes to the mountains every summer to spend a week on property that he and his family have owned for a hundred years. We welcome his visit to our mountain community with a dinner for a few old friends.
The gardens are still attractive but the days are getting shorter and a bit too cool to spend the evening out doors. We plan the evening to start with a gathering on the deck for drinks and starters. I grilled the chicken and vegetable skewers on our propane grill which is set up in the rear gardens.
This recipe is always a success but the entertainment surpassed the meal.
While I was grilling and our friends were chatting on the deck we heard a call from the mountain road that passes our home. A cyclist had stopped and was yelling that there was a fire in the woods just above our home. Everyone was so engaged in conversation that no one had noticed a blaze several hundred yards above us.
After dialing 911 there was an immediate scramble of our guests heading for their homes to hose their yards and gather valuables and prepare for evacuation orders. Meantime I was at the grill cooking the meal.
What to do? It took about 10 seconds to make a decision. Continue cooking. The recipe we were using is an absolute favorite and my position at the grill gave a good view of the blazing fire above us. If it spread rapidly in my direction I would gather things and evacuate, but until then the meal was the priority. I wasn’t sure who would eat it all but I knew that I would have a feast.
Fire trucks started showing up in short order and mountain based firefighters were all over the area with my driveway an important staging area.
The meal was cooked, the table was set and our most of our guests came back after securing important items at home. There was a great meal prepared while fire equipment surrounded our property with flashing lights and the rumble of diesel engines. We gathered oil lamps and candles and as expected the lights went out. We had a great meal by candlelight with exciting entertainment as an accompaniment.
No lives were threatened and the only property lost was a vacant house in the woods.
The fire fighters ( mostly volunteers) were skilled, organized and obviously well trained.
They contained the fire quickly and had it completely out in about 3 hours.
The electric was back on at about 2AM so the leftovers remained refrigerated and will provide an enjoyable lunch tomorrow.
Wildfire Skewered Chicken and Veggies
Ingredients:
½ cup olive oil
3 tablespoons soy sauce
¼ cup rice wine vinegar
½ cup sherry
bunch parsley chopped
6 boneless chicken breasts
12 vine ripened red, yellow and orange mini peppers( seeded and cut in half)
2 zucchini
2 yellow squash
Preparation:
For marinade-mix oil, soy sauce, vinegar, sherry and parsley in a bowl
Cut chicken breasts in half and then cut each half into 3 pieces
Marinate chicken overnight
Cut zucchini and squash into1/2 inch round pieces
Skewer chicken – 5 pieces on each skewer
In another bowl sprinkle veggies with olive oil, salt and pepper
Skewer zucchini and squash- leave a space between each round
Skewer pepper halves with space between pieces
Grill on a hot grill Start the veggies first on half the grill
After about 5 minutes put the chicken skewers on the grill
Total grill time is about 15 minutes max
Keep turning the skewers and do not over cook the chicken
Service:
We remove the chicken, squash, peppers and zucchini from the skewers and place them mixed together on a large serving dish. Rice and a crisp green salad with avocados are served along with the main dish.
For dessert we had peach pie and vanilla ice cream (Breyers’ of course!)
Note on living in the mountains.
Most folks have identified what is important to be saved and can be prepared to evacuate in minutes if a wildfire threatens.
by Buck on August 9, 2010
Now that local peaches are available peach recipes are part of our thinking about food every day. The peaches will only be available for a few weeks so we try to take every opportunity to use them when entertaining.
When I posted the Peach Cobbler recipe a few days ago I suggested that a small scoop of vanilla ice cream would go well with the cobbler. Thinking it over I decided the ice cream with a peach pie would be a perfect accompaniment and for the cobbler a peach sorbet would work well.
Decisions- Decisions. Decide for yourself what goes with what and to help, here is our recipe for Grand Junction Peach Sorbet. Grand Junction is in Western Colorado where the peaches grow.
Grand Junction Peach Sorbet
Ingredients:
1 cup simple syrup (1 cup sugar and 1 cup water)
6 Grand Junction peaches
Juice of one large lemon
Preparation:
In a medium saucepan combine sugar and water. Bring to a boil, stirring, until sugar has dissolved. Allow to cool.
Peel, pit and slice the peaches
Bring simple syrup to a boil and add the peaches
Reduce heat to medium and cook peaches for about 9 or 10 minutes
Add lemon juice – mix- let cool
Puree in a blender
Pour into your ice cream machine
Freeze as per machine instructions
Service: We will be serving with the peach cobbler.
If Grand Junction Peaches aren’t available use a Georgia or New Jersey Peach. I understand that there are some quality peaches available in Oregon. Take the time to find some excellent local peaches and a great sorbet will be the result.
